A scenic passage via the Hai Van Pass and best things to visit in Hué!

We left the mellow lanes of Hoi An early, the golden-town of lanterns behind us, and headed north toward the city of Huế — but not by the beaten highway. Instead we chose the legendary Hai Van Pass, often called the “Pass of the Ocean Clouds” for good reason. This stretch of mountain road winds some 21 km at an elevation up to about 500 m, perched between dense jungle on one side and the sea on the other.

From the moment the coastal ribbon began its serpentine ascent, we felt the shift: the tropical heat tempered, sea views opened out, and every turn revealed another lagoon-sheltered bay or fishing village nestled beneath the blue sky.

Lagoon reflections & fishing life at Lang Cô and An Cư

Shortly after cresting the pass, we paused at the vantage over the Lang Cô Lagoon: water so still you could see the fisher boat reflections mirrored like sketches. Local tours list this as a must-stop. We then rolled down into the small village of An Cư Village (one of the local fishing hamlets) where nets were drying on racks, children chased each other on the pier, and older men mended traps in the shade of palm fronds. The rural calm contrasted strikingly with the dramatic road we had just driven.

An Bang Village: the “City of Ghosts”

One of the most remarkable stops on our journey was at An Bang Village, often dubbed the “City of Ghosts” or “The Land Where the Dead Live”. What exactly does that mean? Here, Vietnamese who emigrated abroad (often to Europe or America) have helped financing to build family tomb-mansions far more elaborate than their homes ever were. The craftsmanship, the scale, the detail — marble, columns, zoomorphic motifs — it all feels ancient, yet is quite new (many date from 2000 onwards). Wandering among these mausoleums, you sense a powerful mixture of honor, memory, and legacy.

It struck us as somewhat ironic and deeply touching: that in life one builds modestly, but in death one spares no expense. The village was quiet, dignified, and as much a testament to diaspora as to heritage.

Visiting the old Imperial City in Hué

The next morning our exploration began inside the sprawling grounds of the former imperial capital. From 1802 until 1945, the Nguyễn dynasty ruled Vietnam from this very terrain. Though much of the complex was destroyed during the Indochina conflict, parts of the Forbidden Purple City have been painstakingly rebuilt and the gardens remain exquisitely restored. Walking through the restored halls and shaded courtyards, you sense the presence of history.

Mid-day took us to the Thiên Mụ Pagoda, a lakeside Buddhist temple beside the famed “Perfume River”. Its seven-story Phước Duyên tower, at 21 metres high, stands as a symbol of Huế. The air is fragrant with blooming orchards upriver, and in the autumn breeze you understand why the water is called the “Perfume River”. Book a local guide-tour here.

Beyond the sights: cooking, cycling and country living

Our afternoon was devoted to the verdant outskirts: we visited Thủy Biều Village, known for its grapefruit orchards and historic homes. There we joined a local family for a cooking class — learning to flip rice-flour pancakes stuffed with chicken, taste freshly harvested herbs, and share a leisurely lunch in their garden. Afterwards we mounted bicycles and pedalled through emerald rice paddies, pausing at a traditional silk-painting workshop and a sesamin-cookie maker. The countryside felt slow-moving in the best way: the rhythm of life visible in simple gestures and seasonal texture.

In the evening we went out for dinner near the lively Nguyen Dinh Chieu Walking Street — Huế’s pedestrianised hub for street food, lanterns and live music. Finally we ended the night high above the city at the Zenith Skybar (on the rooftop of the Melia Hotel) with a last look at the illuminated citadel and the winding perfume river below.

Practical Travel Tips for Huế & the Hai Van Pass

Best time to visit Huế & the Hai Van Pass

• March to September is the ideal travel window: dry weather, clear skies, and breathtaking visibility from the Hai Van Pass.

• October to December can bring heavy rain and occasional flooding.

• January to February is cooler but comfortable for exploring Huế’s Imperial City.

  
  

Suggested route & timing

• Plan 4 to 6 hours for the journey from Hoi An to Huế, including scenic stops.

• The Hai Van Pass itself is only ~21 km, but its viewpoints turn it into an iconic slow-travel experience.

  
  

Where to stay in Huế

We stayed at Senna Hue Hotel – A stylish, peaceful, and luxurious hotel located in the heart of Huế. Highlights include:

• spacious, elegant rooms

• a refreshing outdoor pool

• a high-quality breakfast buffet with local and international dishes

• a perfect location within walking distance of the Imperial City

Tip: Ask for a room overlooking the pool or gardens for extra tranquility.

What to bring on the journey

• Sunscreen, hat & sunglasses

• Comfortable walking shoes

• Camera + plenty of storage

• A light jacket (the summit of the Pass can be breezy)

  
  

Must-See stops along the way

• 📍 Hai Van Pass viewpoint – panoramic 360° views over the sea and mountains

• 📍 Lăng Cô Lagoon – mirror-like waters and pastel colors

• 📍 An Cư fishing village – authentic coastal life

• 📍 An Bang “City of Ghosts” – a surreal cemetery unlike anything else in Vietnam

• 📍 Imperial City of Huế – palaces, gates, temples & royal gardens

• 📍 Thien Mu Pagoda – Huế’s iconic riverside landmark

• 📍 Thuy Bieu Village – cooking class & cycling tour through rice fields

Final Thoughts

Traveling from Hoi An to Huế along the Hai Van Pass isn’t just a transfer from one city to another — it’s a journey through multiple layers of Vietnam’s identity. You begin amid lantern-lit lanes of a trading port, wind your way over a cloud-kissed coastal mountain ridge, peer into lagoon life and elaborate family tombs, and end in the palace grounds of empires past. Every mile we travelled felt guided by story and scenery, and left us with memories of terrain, taste and tradition intertwined. If any stretch of your Vietnam itinerary calls for awe, wonder and reflection, make this the one.