Visiting Baden-Baden? Discover amazing wellness, culture and gastronomy in the Black Forest
- Destination Explorer
- Jun 15
- 8 min read
Baden-Baden is one of those towns that surprises you before you've even properly arrived. The grandeur of the Belle Époque is palpable the moment you step into its streets: stately façades, elegant promenades, and an atmosphere that almost automatically slows you down. It feels as though you've taken a step back in time, to an era when Europe's elite spent their summers here, and the town carried the nickname 'Europe's Summer Capital'. And thankfully, that feeling has never quite faded.
Baden-Baden is part of the Great Spa Towns of Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage title the town received in 2021. In 2026, it celebrates five years of UNESCO recognition.
Another reason to discover this fascinating destination in the Black Forest.
Table of content
Exploring Baden-Baden: Leopoldsplatz, Trinkhalle and tango
A first walk through the old town centre takes us past several beautiful sights. The Baden-Baden Theatre, a stretch of the Lichtentaler Allee and the lively heart of town at Leopoldsplatz (home to the famous Leo-Brunnen fountain) all make an appearance. Via a charming sloping street, we reach Weinstube Baltreit, where we settle at a small round table on the cosy courtyard terrace, surrounded by greenery. Local specialities, a good glass of wine, and the realisation that this is simply a wonderful town.
That evening, something special is on the programme: Tango at the Trinkhalle, one of the highlights of the World Heritage Weekend. The setting? The famous Trinkhalle, an open gallery decorated with elegant colonnades and fifteen frescoes telling stories from Baden-Baden's history. This is where people once came to drink the healing spring water that originates in the Black Forest.
The setting alone makes the evening half worthwhile. Musicians from Argentina, the home of tango, play alongside a couple of professional dancers. The audience can choose: watch and enjoy, or take to the dance floor themselves. We choose the former, admiring the dancing couples in this fairy-tale setting.
Sleeping in a piece of history: Hotel Belle Époque
Our stay at Hotel Belle-Époque sets the tone immediately. The hotel is housed in the former residence of Duke Ferdinand von Lotzbeck, built in 1874, a time when Baden-Baden was buzzing with activity and international visitors. The old splendour has been beautifully preserved: our suite, named after King Louis Philippe I, is decorated in French Empire style, with heavy curtains, fine woods and elegant antique furniture. A large jacuzzi and air conditioning thankfully ensure that modern comfort isn't lacking either.
In the morning, we have breakfast in the elegant salon on the ground floor, with direct access to the terrace and garden. On a sunny day, there's no better way to start the morning.
A visit to the Friedrichsbad: wellness in a historic gem
If you do just one thing in Baden-Baden, make it a visit to the Friedrichsbad. This majestic bathhouse was built in 1877, celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2027, and is one of the most beautiful thermal bathhouses in Europe.
On most days, you visit the baths in the nude, but on Wednesdays and Saturdays, swimwear is required. Armed with bathrobe, towel and slippers, the latter genuinely necessary, since the heated pools radiate warmth from the floor, we begin the circuit of seventeen different baths. The ornate original tiles with flowers and birds breathe history, as do the characteristic showerheads.
In room 11, we float in a 36-degree pool, wonderfully relaxing. But the next room is, without doubt, the most beautiful: a stunning dome above your head, and a cooler 28-degree bath that washes away any remaining tension. An optional soap brush massage completes the experience. Afterwards comes a moment of rest: wrapped in a towel and blanket, in silence, followed by a cup of tea. No wonder Baden-Baden's slogan is 'The Good Good Life'.
Strolling along the Lichtentaler Allee
The Lichtentaler Allee is the green heart of Baden-Baden, and one of the most beautiful promenades in Germany. This elegant walking path stretches for two kilometres along the river Oos, from the Kurhaus to the old Lichtental Abbey. Designed according to the principles of the English landscape garden, strolling here was once elevated to an art form.
Thanks to the mild climate, exotic trees from all corners of the world could be planted here. Today, the Allee is recognised as a botanical garden. On either side of the path stand impressive mansions that recall the grandeur of bygone days, when carriages and horses set the tone.
At the end of the walk, we settle into Café Lumen for a well-deserved drink and a slice of delicious cake. The perfect stop along the way.
The old town centre: a World Heritage Tour
During a guided Heritage Tour through the old town centre, it quickly becomes clear that Baden-Baden is far more than a town with hot springs. In the nineteenth century, it grew into an international meeting place where health, culture, politics and luxury all came together.
Wealthy Britons, Russians, French, Swedes and Americans sometimes stayed here for months at a time for a cure. Many returned year after year, and some settled permanently. Foreign communities sprang up with their own churches and social networks, the Anglican All Saints Church and the Russian Orthodox Church stand as tangible reminders of this today.
A crucial role in the town's international appeal was played by the French Bénazet family. After gambling was banned in France, they transformed the Casino Baden-Baden into a world-class attraction. At the same time, they invested in theatres, concerts, parks and hotels, turning Baden-Baden into a complete experience. The casino, modelled on French palaces such as Versailles, remains one of the town's top attractions today. Marlene Dietrich once called it 'the most beautiful casino in the world'.
Culturally, the town played an equally significant role. Hector Berlioz, Franz Liszt, Johannes Brahms, Johann Strauss, Mark Twain and Turgenev all found inspiration or performed here. Berlioz even conducted the world premiere of his opera Béatrice et Bénédict in Baden-Baden.
The charming Hirschstrasse invites a bit of shopping: lovely boutiques and jewellers alongside cosy restaurants and cafés. A practical tip: comfortable shoes are a must, as the old town centre is far from flat. The streets climb towards the new castle and the old marketplace.
During the World Heritage Weekend, the Bridgerton-like atmosphere of the Belle Époque comes fully to life. Locals dress in period costume, ride vintage bicycles or travel through the streets by horse and carriage, while the Baden-Baden Philharmonic Orchestra provides the perfect soundtrack.
Behind the scenes at the Baden-Baden Theatre
The Baden-Baden Theatre was built in 1862, modelled on the Paris Opera. To mark its opening, Hector Berlioz composed his opera Béatrice et Bénédict, based on Shakespeare's Much Ado About Nothing. Offenbach also composed for the theatre: his operetta La Princesse de Trébizonde had its premiere here.
A behind-the-scenes look was high on our list, and it turns out to be a fascinating visit. We stand on the stage and experience the advanced theatre technology in the wings. We visit the boxes and the so-called 'gods' all the way at the top. Finally, the lady responsible for make-up and wigs explains how actors are transformed into their characters. Captivating.
To the top of the Black Forest with the MerkurBergbahn
What also makes Baden-Baden so special is its direct proximity to the Black Forest. From the town centre, it's just a ten-minute drive to the base station of the MerkurBergbahn. This picturesque little train carries you effortlessly up 668 metres to the summit of the Merkur mountain. The view is breathtaking.
At the top stands the Merkurturm, free to enter, offering an even wider panorama over the surrounding area. For those who want to walk, there's a choice of several routes:
Wolfschlucht to the Merkur Summit: a popular panoramic circular walk of just over 5 km
Merkur via the Fuchsweg: a beautiful loop of nearly 9 km over the summit and through the Central/North Black Forest Nature Park
On foot to the summit: a walk to the top is also possible from the base station of the MerkurBergbahn
Baden-Baden: a destination for every season
Baden-Baden today is far more than a spa town. It's a living example of how tourism, health, culture and international history can reinforce one another. The combination of Belle Époque architecture, green landscapes, top-tier wellness and a rich cultural programme makes it one of Europe's most fascinating destinations, and one that absolutely deserves a spot on your travel list.
Whether you come for the thermal baths, a walk along the Lichtentaler Allee, an evening at the casino, or a trip to the top of the Merkur: Baden-Baden always gives you more than you expected.
Practical information: visiting Baden-Baden
Getting there From Brussels by train in around 5 hours (via Cologne). By car: approximately 5 hours (traffic-dependent), via the E40/A5.
Thermal Baths
Friedrichsbad: historic bathhouse (1877), 17-bath circuit, optional soap brush massage. Swimwear required on Wednesdays and Saturdays; nude bathing on other days.
Book in advance via the Friedrichsbad website.
Must-sees
Trinkhalle & Kurhaus
Lichtentaler Allee (botanical garden, 2 km)
Casino Baden-Baden
Theater Baden-Baden (backstage tours available)
MerkurBergbahn & Merkurturm (free entry to the tower)
Leopoldsplatz & Leo-Brunnen
Anglican All Saints' Church & Russian-Orthodox Church
Food & drink
Weinstube Baldreit: local specialities, atmospheric courtyard
Die Kleine Prinz: perfect for a romantic dinner, serving a refined mix of French gastronomy and regional Baden cuisine, in a beautifully decorated setting
Restaurant Rizzi: an elegant restaurant with a lovely terrace, serving Mediterranean cuisine with an Asian twist.
Café Lumen: on the Lichtentaler Allee, wonderful cake
Café König: an elegant coffee house in the centre of Baden-Baden, with delicious cakes and pastries on a charming terrace. The patisserie is part of Relais Desserts, the hallmark of excellence in the world of fine pastry.
Where to stay
Hotel Belle-Époque: a beautiful boutique hotel in a historic building, featuring Empire-style suites, a large garden with a terrace, and a delicious breakfast.
UNESCO & events In 2026, Baden-Baden celebrates five years of UNESCO recognition as a Great Spa Town of Europe. The annual World Heritage Weekend features Heritage Tours, concerts, tango evenings and historical costume parades.
🌐 More information: www.baden-baden.com
Frequently asked questions about Baden-Baden
Is swimwear required at the Friedrichsbad?
On most days, the baths are visited in the nude. Swimwear is only required on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
How long is the train journey from Brussels to Baden-Baden?
Expect a journey of around 5 hours, with a connection via Cologne.
Is Baden-Baden suitable for a day trip?
A day trip is possible, but staying overnight allows you to experience the town at a more relaxed pace and enjoy the casino, theatre or an evening event as well.
What's the best time to visit Baden-Baden?
Baden-Baden is pleasant all year round. There's a guided tour for Baden-Baden as a World Heritage Site every first Saturday of the month. Only available in German. You can book it here.
How much does a visit to the Friedrichsbad cost?
Prices depend on the chosen circuit and any extras such as a soap brush massage. Book in advance via the Friedrichsbad website for current rates.
Can you combine the Black Forest with a visit to Baden-Baden?
Absolutely. From the town centre, it's just a ten-minute trip to the base station of the MerkurBergbahn, which carries you to the summit of the Merkur mountain in a matter of minutes, the perfect starting point for hikes in the Black Forest.
Comments