Visiting the Isle of May: how to see puffins from Edinburgh?

Anyone visiting Edinburgh who also has an eye for nature absolutely must not miss this day trip. The Isle of May , a tiny island in the Firth of Forth, is one of the most special places Scotland has to offer. Every year, starting in April, thousands of seabirds arrive here to breed: puffins, kittiwakes, eider ducks, and northern fulmars. It is a hive of activity, making it a unique experience unlike anything else.

From Edinburgh to North Berwick

On a radiant first of May (and yes, the sun in Scotland is always a surprise), we board the train at Waverley Station in Edinburgh. It takes a moment to find the right platform, but then the train departs right on time. Along the way, we pass a few small villages before reaching the final station: North Berwick , a picturesque Scottish coastal town with a charming town centre.

Here, we first stock up on provisions at a local supermarket, as there is nothing for sale on the Isle of May itself. That is an important point to keep in mind! Fortunately, there are public toilets on the island.

Sailing to the Isle of May, past Bass Rock

The Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick organizes landing trips to the island from April to October. Aboard a zodiac, we first sail past Bass Rock , an impressive rock in the sea that literally teems with seagulls. They fly overhead, with clumps of seaweed in their beaks for nest building. The scene is both chaotic and fascinating.

After sailing for about 35 minutes, during which we already see plenty of puffins diving for food, we dock at the island. We are greeted by a silver-grey seal, lying here blissfully enjoying the sunshine. A few colorful kayaks lie on a nearby rocky beach. Curious, we clamber ashore.

Discovering the island: puffins, seals and a lighthouse

Our fellow passengers are mainly local bird photographers with large lenses, who set off on their own immediately. Since it is our first time, we join the guide, a choice we absolutely do not regret.

The island is inhabited by volunteers employed by NatureScot, who study the numbers and breeding success of the seabirds. They are also responsible for maintenance and guiding visitors.

Quite soon, we see an eider duck lying peacefully in the grass. The guide tells us that these are the largest and fastest ducks, reaching up to 113 km/h in horizontal flight. Even more remarkable: the females incubate the eggs on the nest continuously for 40 days, without eating.

In early May, the puffins laid their eggs in the small burrows scattered throughout the field. Staying on the paths is the message, as the nests are sometimes right next to your feet. With our binoculars at the ready, we wait patiently and are rewarded: a puffin curiously pokes its colorful head out of one of the burrows.

Fascinating facts about puffins

Puffins spend the greater part of their lives at sea. They only come ashore to mate and breed, and they do so in Scotland, Iceland, Norway, Ireland, and North America, among other places. They are loyal, united pairs: the males build the nest, the females lay only one egg, and then both parents feed fish to their young for months. After which they simply leave it behind, and one night the chick independently finds its way to the ocean and dives into the water from the cliffs. Puffins can live to be thirty years old.

In addition to the puffins, hundreds of seals also inhabit the island: both grey and common seals. As many as 2,000 seal pups are born on the Isle of May every year. In the summer, they are easy to spot when they are basking extensively in the sun on the rocks.

Stevenson's Lighthouse

Our guided walk ends at the Stevenson Lighthouse , erected in 1816 and open to visitors today. We can catch a glimpse of the interior and climb part of the spiral staircase; the top section is unfortunately closed, but it already gives a beautiful impression.

Interesting fact: the oldest lighthouse on the island dates back to 1635 , when a family still lived there to keep the fire burning. Charcoal had to be continuously supplied for this. It was not until 1989 that the lighthouse was fully automated and habitation was no longer necessary.

We round off our visit with a short walk to Bishop's Cove , where spectacular rocks are home to nesting gulls. Along the way, a few more puffins cross our path, as if they want to wave us goodbye.

Isle of May: a must-do from Edinburgh

Whether you are an avid birder or simply enjoy nature, the Isle of May is a breathtaking place that you won't experience anywhere else. The combination of wild seabirds, rustic lighthouses, playful seals, and the rugged Scottish coastal nature makes this a day trip that you will remember for a long time.

Be sure to add it to your itinerary if you visit Edinburgh or the East Neuk of Fife. From April to October, it is the perfect day trip.

📌 Tip: Also read our comprehensive guide on visiting Edinburgh in 5 days for more inspiration!

Practical information: Visiting the Isle of May

How do you get there?

From Edinburgh, take the train from Waverley Station to North Berwick (± 40 minutes). From there, the Scottish Seabird Centre organizes boat trips and landing trips from April to October.

You can also depart from Anstruther in the East Neuk of Fife with the cruise lines Anstruther Pleasure Cruises or Isle of May Boat Trips .

Food and drink

There is no opportunity to buy anything on the island. Bring plenty of food and drinks; you can enjoy a lovely picnic on the island. Public toilets are available.

Overnight stay

The island is uninhabited (except for the volunteers), so overnight stays are not possible.

What to bring?

• Sturdy footwear: the island is rocky and consists largely of grasses.

• Binoculars for birdwatching

• A telephoto lens if you want to photograph birds

• Warm and/or windproof clothing; the wind at sea can be chilly, even in spring.